Stirling
Walking Beam Engine, Sterling Engine (oops!)
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A
lot of people are having problems finding material to make the power
piston and cylinder. So I have been working on a possible alternative
that needs no lathe and a minimum of power tools.
The New Power
Cylinder
Below is how to make the cylinder and where to get parts. Please keep in mind I was not trying to keep the price down, but instead give you and alternative that was easy. Please
refer to the photo below:
From Left
to right
1)
1/8" to 1/4" brass bushing
This fitting can be found in any hardware store. 2) 1/4" to 3/4" Steel bushing (brass would be OK also, just more expensive) This fitting can be found in any hardware store. The 1/4" (small inside) must be tapped larger with a 1/4" NPT (pipe thread) tap. The threads on pipe taps are tapered. By running it in deeper it allows the bushing above to thread all the way in. 3) Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 1" Shaft Diameter, 1-1/4" OD, 3" Long McMaster Carr Bearing # 6381K217. Price $4.97 each http://www.mcmaster.com/ Page #1005 in their cataloge. Just do a search for 6381K217 This bearing has to be threaded on one end only with a 3/4" NPT (pipe thread) tap. Not too far or you wont't have enought cylinder free in the inside. If this happens, Just grind down the end of the 1/4" to 3/4" bushing so it don't go in as deep. Here is how it is installed onto the Displacer Cylinder Use Hi Temp silicone sealer when installing it on the displacer cylinder to seal leake. Hi Temp silicone can be bought at any automotive parts store. It's the red stuff they put on gaskets. Also use it on the theads of the larger bushing into the bronze cylinder to seal the threads so they don't leak. 8974K133
Alloy 6061 Aluminum Rod 1" Diameter, 3' Length (min length) $15.83 Each I know this is a lot to pay, but I hope to be offering 3/4" long pieces soon at cost and this will be easier. The rod will have to be sanded slightly as it is a tight fit in the cylinder above, but It is very easy to do and get right. I still need to get photos of the process and how to machine the piston using a drill motor Coming Soon! PS, I will be needing a person willing to try this new cylinder and piston out when I'm done with it. |
This is a possible alternative to a lathe turned piston or a brake piston.
The following is an email sent to me by Dan
Haigh
Thought I'd pass on a hint for those
folks
who don't have a lathe, but want to make pistons to fit 1" Type M
copper
pipe. Since both Type M (1.055" I.D.) and Type L (1.025" I.D.) are readily available in most areas, here's what I did: I cut a 3/4" long piece of Type L
using a tubing
cutter and carefully deburred the inside of both ends (a jackknife
works
fine). I then coated the inside with a thin I let the epoxy cure overnight, then
pressed
out the finished piston with a bearing press. If a bearing press
or strong drill press isn't available, the piston can be removed
The resulting lightweight piston will
need
a very minor amount of sanding on the leading edge and then will fit
beautifully
into Type M copper pipe. I know the above Best regards, |
Oiling
Tip/Change
Power Piston Oiling. Allows oiling during
running.
How to Drill that bolt at the top of the displacer piston!
As they say " A picture is worth a thousand words", here is 3 thiousand words!
Thanks to Matt Engelber for this idea
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